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The plaza rests under the shade of great Laurels of India. Each morning before dawn, Antonio Arce Camacho sweeps the whole area with a long wand of date palm while early worshippers walk to Mass. Later, vendors offer household items, clothes, toys and tools under canvas shades supported by aluminum frames. From Casa Lereé, I can hear the clang of the poles as they fall when the shelters are dismantled, joined by the clatter of skate boards, the laughter of children in their fiestas and the whistle of the umpire in volleyball games.
In late afternoon the food vendors open. The succulent beef tacos at Augustine's Taquería 'Lupita' often draw me to the square; then from 'El CA PU' an icy raspado de tamarindo with the surprising pit to chew on. Oscar sometimes sells homemade sherbet from his old bus, parked next to the ambulance he drives in emergencies. I enjoy dinner sitting on a bench facing the mission, watching sunset colors on the old stone walls. With a date pie from Luz at her window across the street, I head home to Casa Lereé.
The culmination of the year in the plaza comes when we celebrate the Tradicionales Fiestas de San Ignacio during the last week of July. The statue of San Ignacio is carried along the streets each afternoon by the people of a different neighborhood singing martial songs of Ignatius of Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit order. The plaza is ringed with booths, while carnival rides fill the arroyo beyond the mission. In the opening ceremony, the governor, mayor and all assembled enjoy folkloric dancing presented by local young people. Contestants for queen parade in beautiful hand-made costumes recalling the traditions of San Ignacio. As the night mellows, the band begins to play for dancing under the huge laurel trees. And the dancing continues all night, each night of the fiesta.
West Side of the Plaza
The beautiful Misión de San Ignacio de Kadakaamán fills with worshippers on Sundays at 11 a.m. and each day at dawn you will hear the bells for early Mass. To the rear of the church roof is a beautiful white dome. Ignacianos smile and say, 'that is our media-naranja, our half-orange.'
The left wing of the mission was the storeroom, La Bodega, but now it houses the exquisite Museum of the Rock Art of the Sierra de San Francisco. The culmination of the exhibit is a recreation of a great concave raspaldo covered with gigantic human figures and prancing deer, the unique art of the first people to inhabit the peninsula.
Step down into the subterranean office next to the museum to arrange your Cave Tour Permits for one-day or more challenging multi-day visits by pack animal, guided by one of the local ranchers who act as guardians of this national treasure. There is a small office fee, a small fee for each camera, and you can inquire the appropriate amount to pay your guide. If you like, while you explore the caves a ranch artisan will make the traditional leather shoes or teguas, to the pattern of your foot. Several tour operators in town help with outfitting and transportation.
South Side of the Plaza
From the SW corner walk along to J. Fisher Tienda Rural, where Proprietor José 'Cheché' Fisher also offers tours. Farther along under brick arches at Restaurant Chalita you may enjoy her famous Chiles Rellenos and Bisteck Ranchero. Behind her open window, Luz Romero offers Date Pie, Date Cake and a beautiful smile. At Abarrotes Arnoldo look for groceries, milk and greens, hosted by Arnoldo himself. The Video Club Premier has small electronics, film, clothing, shoes and toys. Adan Arce Espinosa will help you find what you need.
Down the block to the East you will find Restaurant René on the right with its brick arches, a downtown gathering place with memorable seafood. The acequia that flows through the garden of Casa Lereé fills the octagonal pond behind Rene's and waters the farms below, as it did in the mission years. The historic adobe across the street, now Farmacía LaFe, was called 'Las Arces' after the Arce family, and was a center of community activity (see Archive photo).
East Side of the Plaza
On the SE corner you will find Ecoturismo Kuyima, where you can arrange tours. Kuyima has also opened a new Artesanía Shop around the corner with work from local artists and ranchers and from the interior of Mexico, as well as books. The Bazaar offers a wide variety of handy household items. Cross the street to La Purisima - 1939, now Mercado Mayoral Lopez on the corner for fresh milk, groceries, clothing and friendly visits with grandmother Magdalena 'Nena' and son Umberto and his wife Juanita.
North Side of the Plaza
On the NW corner Manuel 'Chacho' Meza at Nuevo Almacenes Meza offers groceries, tee shirts, leather work and cargo boxes or cacaistles, made by local ranchers. Along to the right Miscelanea Dagus has fruits and vegetables, cheese and meat and smiles from Gustavo 'Tavo' Villavicencio and wife Lola Rousseau. Dago Fisher has opened an Internet Café & Tour Service midblock, and farther along is the office of Dr. Anna Mayoral.
North Side, One Block Over
Looking north from the NE corner you see a long blue colonial building. The historic adobe, garden & bookstore of Casa Lereé is open all day to visitors, and rooms are offered for travelers. The bookstore has a wide selection of books in both Spanish and English as well as the art of Clemente Arce and local artisans and a gallery of the Photo Archive of San Ignacio. Thanks to the kindness of Jacobo Rousseau the archive includes early photos of San Ignacio taken by his father Juan José Rousseau, as well as his drawings of the mission done in 1884. Juan José was born in Mulegé but came to San Ignacio to found a large family. Their home on the plaza still serves his children. Agriculturalist and surveyor, Juan José developed a vineyard and bottled a wine with the label J. J. Rousseau, San Ignacio, Baja California.
Across the street from Casa Lereé, the Sport Racing Bar Restaurant offers good meals at good prices. Paulita and Sergio await your visit to give you a welcome and tell about the history of the off-road race the Baja 1,000 or Baja Mil which passes through San Ignacio every even year in November. The paintings of racing cars which decorate the restaurant are by Sergio, who began to love the race as a boy when a radio communication station for the event was set up in the garden of Casa Lereé across from his home.
Standing in front of Casa Lereé, look down the block to the left to see Miscelanea Castro (stationary and hardware) where you will find a friendly greeting from Luis Castro, wife Rebeca Lereé and son Abel; Farmacia Ceseña, where Hercilia Ceseña and Dr. Carlos Ávila greet visitors; and the Estrella del Norte, the old social hall ruined when the great laurel tree fell (see Archive photos). On the left is Miscelanea Cuca for groceries and animal feed, where Cuca sings to her flock of pigeons.
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Casa Lereé
Calle Madero s/n
San Ignacio, Centro
Baja California Sur
23930 México
Phone: 615-154-0158
E-mail: janebames@prodigy.net.mx
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